Montclair isn’t what most would call a bustling neighborhood. Amid its quaint residential blocks and oak-lined roads, traffic is a rare sighting, even on weekends. But on second and fourth Fridays, cars line bumper to bumper on Thornhill Drive to snag parking spaces for Lo-Fi Oyster Co., a pop-up that aims to bring this neighborhood a nightlife scene it’s never seen before.
Despite its name, the pop-up isn’t just about the oysters (though they’re arguably one of its biggest pulls). Lo-Fi can best be described as a cross-pollination of interests—a hub for folks who like chasing fresh seafood with slugs of natural wine, hearing local musicians crank out experimental jazz tunes and admiring artist Melanie Marie’s visual graphics float over the walls. Housed in a former wine bar next to restaurant Taps and Takeout, Lo-Fi attracts guests spanning generations. By 7 p.m. the place is so packed that swells of attendees spill onto tables in the parking lot.
Lo-Fi Oyster Co.
Pops up every second and fourth Friday from 5-10 p.m. Follow directions for Taps and Takeout at 5736 Thornhill Drive in Oakland.
Lo-Fi is spearheaded by Emma Thomas-Sand and Justin Esposito, both Oakland residents and artists in their own right. Thomas-Sand, a restaurant industry professional, curates Lo-Fi’s selection of natural wines. Esposito, a musician, runs the music portion of the evening. They launched the pop-up in June 2023 to blend their specialties and connect the Bay Area’s jazz, wine and food communities—all while injecting some energy into one of Montclair’s sleepiest streets. What started as a few wine and oyster offerings has, now almost a year later, blossomed into a full food, wine and music program for locals and visitors alike.
“I’m a firm believer in filling voids and contributing to spaces that aren’t necessarily there,” Esposito said. “We saw an opportunity to do something in Montclair because there wasn’t anything like it.”
Local oysters and wine pay homage to Bay Area
If there’s one pairing that can draw a crowd, it’s oysters and wine. But Thomas-Sand said the pop-up stemmed from a desire to promote underrepresented Californian winemakers—and to pay homage to the Bay Area’s rich natural resources.
“We’re sourcing local Californian natural wines from people we know personally, whose stories and passion excite us,” she said, adding that she sources wines from sustainable and low-impact producers. Thirteen of the 18 natural wines in the program are Californian. Bottles from California winemakers Sam Rogers of Coucou and Akari Yamamura of Yamachan Wines are on the lineup.
Thomas-Sand and Esposito also make a point to source oysters from Bay Area hatcheries, including those from Marin and Tomales Bay. Both noted that the mollusks aren’t just a Bay Area staple; they’re another avenue for serving up local, sustainable fare.
The oysters are certainly a crowd-pleaser, but folks hungry for a bigger bite can get their fill next door at Taps and Takeout, which runs its full menu during Lo-Fi pop-ups. Not to be missed are the heaping plates of crispy fried chicken, thick-cut fries and the S5—the Super Secret Spicy Swordfish Sandwich—loaded with grilled swordfish, spicy aioli, bacon and sandwich fixings on a grilled pub roll.
Taps and Takeout owner Joe Frankel said he’s happy to contribute to community-building events like Lo-Fi. He has an excellent space for it: he also leases the building next to Taps and Takeout, formerly the wine bar Duvin, which enables him to host Lo-Fi and other pop-ups throughout the week. The space is snug and perfectly outfitted for events like these, equipped with a bar, a few tables and a cozy sofa.
Frankel said the bulk of the neighborhood welcomes the influx of cultural activities.
“I think that [nightlife] was potentially one of the voids in this community,” Frankel said. “We love Montclair Village, but it’s more for daytime and early evening activities. And not that we’re trying to be this new late-night spot, but here, we have a little bit more autonomy and flexibility with some of our outdoor space.”
Lo-Fi is putting Montclair on the map
Montclair is one of Oakland’s best-kept secrets, and Lo-Fi is opening the door to a neighborhood many East Bay residents often overlook.
“I think everyone that comes out has an absolute blast,” Frankel said. “It’s a different world almost when you turn the corner onto Thornhill. And I think that’s what most of the people that are coming for like Lo-Fi and some of the special events, they’re like, ‘I didn’t know this part of Oakland existed.’”
Folks from as far as San Francisco’s Sunset District are coming to the Montclair outpost to drink in the serenity of this hidden gem.
“As someone who’s moving here in two months, it’s nice to know what the East Bay has to offer,” said attendee Julia Oller, a current Sunset resident. “It broadens the scope of possibilities of things to do as I’m imagining what my life might look like here.”
Montclair is where Lo-Fi found its roots, but Thomas-Sand and Esposito are already bringing the pop-up to other parts of the East Bay, including The Study Wine Bar in Richmond and Oakland’s Ramen Shop.
Thomas-Sand and Esposito have plans to further expand Lo-Fi’s reach with an industry night and a summer music residency in San Francisco’s Richmond District. They’re also looking to open a bottle shop in Oakland in the near future. But no matter where they go, their commitment to championing Bay Area experimental music, wine and food culture remains steadfast.
“It’s really just about positively impacting and contributing to spaces in the most authentic and community-driven way possible,” Esposito said.
